Grange Castlecooly • Burt Castle

Drumboy

Blanket Nook

LONDONDERRY

Bohullion Ballybegly

Bullyboy Roosky '

C reeve " Monglass

LETTERKENNY

„ CARRIGANS Derncally

Classeygowan Glentown

Ardagh ST.JOHNSTON smoghry

Momeen Legnatraw Mongavlin

Gillustown ^{Castle Binnion}

LIFFORD STRABANE

MAP OF AREA DISCUSSED

Scale: Half Inch to One Statute Mile or 1:126,720

The late Mr. Edward Mclntyre for his valuable assistance.

The late Mrs. K. E. M. Baird for her contribution and for the loan of her family papers.

The very helpful staff of the Public Record Office, Belfast.

Members of Taughboyne Guild of Irish Countrywomen's Association who helped me with research, especially Mrs. Nan Alexander and Mrs. Myrtle Glenn.

Mr. J. G. Campbell who did the illustrations.

Grianan of Aileach

The Laggan Valley is a level tract of rich agricultural land between the River Foyle and the Upper Reaches of Lough Swilly. The word "Laggan" is derived from the Celtic root "lag" or "lug" meaning a flat place. In prehistoric times it was a large lake dotted with islands, the highest of which were the hill of Aileach, and the hill of Oaks on which Derry City is situated. Aileach borders the area to the north, to the west is Lough Swilly, to the East Lough Foyle, and the southern boundary stretches from Convoy to Lifford. I am going to trace the history of St. Johnston, Carrigans and Newtowncunningham, the most of which area lies in the parish of Taughboyne.

In the Parish of Taughboyne were enacted in miniature the conflicts of Irish and sometimes even of British and European history. King James II, during the siege of Derry went to the top of Binion Hill near St. Johnston, and on looking at the fine view of rich arable land said "A land well worth a fight my Lords," and there has been much fighting for this land over the centuries. First the Danes, then the Normans, who ruled here until 1333, the English, and the clans of O'Donnell, O'Neill and O'Doherty, all fought for the possession of this district. It is recorded that Art O'Neill invaded Tir Conaill in 1511 and plundered Tir Eanna and defeated O'Doherty. The next year O'Donnell raided the O'Neill territory of Tyrone. "In 1557 Calva O'Donnell encamped on summit of Binion Hill in Parish of Taughboyne, and Calva when he viewed O'Neill (Shane) in vicinity he ordered his gallow-glasses to arm directly and make a nocturnal attack on Shane's camp and the Tyronians were completely routed."

with dismay the inroads of the raiders, but at the same time didn't want to come into open animosity with them as Alsander was a close relative of Hugh's wife Finnoula MacDonaill, and also because the Scots could be useful allies against the English. Still there were limits to hospitality, even to a kinsman, and finally the two chieftains traveled to Strabane (six miles from St. Johnston) and informed the leader of the English garrison, that Alsander intended to attack the English. Captain Merriman immediately marched to Portlough and there at Bun an Abair engaged the Scots and slew Alsander.

The fair Ineen Dubh (Finnoula O'Donnell) it is said was a ruthless, ambitious woman, and had several of her stepsons murdered so that her own favorite child, Red Hugh O'Donnell, would be chieftain. But this ambition, which she finally realised, proved as futile as the battles which the O'Neills and O'Donnells waged for this part of Donegal, for soon neither Red Hugh nor any of the old Irish would own one rood of it.

To Mongavlin Castle, as part of her dowry, Finnoula MacDonnaill brought with her 100 Scottish mercenaries, 80 of them reputedly "the tallest men in Scotland and all called Crawford." Crawfords live around there to this day.

In 1591 Finnoula's hour of victory came when her son Red Hugh (aged 20) escaped from Dublin Castle, where he had been imprisoned by the English. His father retired and Hugh Roe was elected to the lordship of Tirconnaill in Kilmacrenan, the last O'Donnell to receive the honour. Notable for his absence from the inauguration was Scan Og O'Doherty of Inishowen, who had not paid his tributes to his overlords the O'Donnells, so Red Hugh and his mother planned to punish the absentee. In 1593, Red Hugh and twelve of his followers surprised Sean Og on the southern border of Inishowen (around Portlough). Sean Og in trying to escape them galloped his horse in the direction of Raphoe but was finally captured and held ransom for two years.

In 1599 O'Neill and O'Donnell forgot for a short while their differences and mobilised forces at Strabane in case of English landing. About that time Dowcra, Commander of the British army of occupation, erected six small forts to protect his forces against O'Donnell raids, from Culmatrine Castle to Carrigans Castle. The former has been demolished and the site of the latter (another home of Finnoula O'Donnell) is supposed to be beneath the present flax-mill. Cloon House now stands on the site of one of these forts and another is supposed to have been at Grieve.

In May, 1601, Red Hugh mustered his forces to lay siege to Inishowen. English troops were immediately rushed to Carrigans for but Red Hugh bypassed them and by cutting trees at Portlough and Newtowncunningham made a temporary bridge over the water to the west and got through to engage the English at Ballyliffin. This, however, was not one of his most successful campaigns although he won many battles elsewhere. In 1602 he died an exile in Spain at the age of only 31.

When Sean Og O'Doherty died, his son Cahil allied himself to the English, and for five years ruled under the patronage of Dowcra with whom he got on very well.

killing Paulet, but the superior forces of the English finally prevailed.

With the flight of the Earls from Lough Swilly in 1607 and now the defeat and death of the last big Irish chieftain in North Donegal, the stage was set for complete take-over by the English and the Plantation of this area.

As pointed out before, there were already Scots in the Lagan, brought over by Finnoula O'Donnell and also many Scottish mercenaries had from time to time settled here. Now the Scottish take-over was to be completed, for in 1609 and 1610, the whole lands were confiscated and planted with Scottish undertakers, with the exception of the Precinct of Liffer (Lifford) which was settled with the English.

3 In order to clear the way for these newcomers a proclamation was published at Lifford in the King's name in the month of September, 1611, ordering all the native Irish to prepare themselves to clearly avoid (i.e. cease to occupy) their several possessions within the said precincts of Lifter and Portlough, and betake themselves to their proportions and allotments in the Barony of Kilmacrenan.

The plantation of St. Johnston. Carrigans and Newtowncunningham was arranged as follows: —

4 Precinct of Portlough, Duke of Lennox chief undertaker of 2,000. Sir Aulant Aula Knight, his agent, resident with some British families; no preparation for building, save some timber trees felled and squared....Grant to the Duke of Lennox (145). The small proportion of Magavelan or Magevelin containing the lands undermentioned viz., Maymun, one quarter, Moymore, one quarter; Reteyn, one quarter; Credough, one quarter; Magavelen, one quarter and 2/8 of the quarter of Altacaskyn adjoining Maymore; in all 1,000 acres. Also the small proportion of Lyttergull, containing Dromore, one quarter; Cooleghemore, one quarter; Tullyrapp, one quarter; Foyglasse. one quarter: Littergull, one quarter; Ballyblanan, one quarter; and 2/8 quarter of Carrickneshinagh; in all 1,000 acres. And also the small proportion of Cashell, including the lands of Kinikilly, one quarter; Cashell, one quarter: Glashogan. one quarter; Moyneasse, one quarter; Cloghfin, one quarter; Tawnagh, one quarter; and 2/8 quarter of Altacaskyn, adjoining the quarter of Cloghfin; in all 1,000 acres. Total rent for the three proportions 161. English....The premises are created the manor Magevelin, Lettergull, and Cashel, with 900 acres in demesne, and a court baron....

Sir John Stewart, Knight, hath 3,000 acres called Cashell, Ketin and Littergull. Upon this proportion there is built at Magevelin, a very strong Castle of Lime and Stone, with flanker at each corner, but as yet there is no bawne nor

freeholders made; and for want of them he (Sir John) saith the Duke of Lenox shall answer the King....

Near adjoining to the Bawne he hath built a town consisting of 26 houses, and a good water mill, all which is inhabited with British tenants. (The name of this residence was Castle-Cunningham. which name was subsequently used to designate the whole estate or manor) consisting of, Don boy, containing the lands of Donboy, one quarter; Monegragan, one quarter; Andry. one quarter; Moyle, one quarter; Moyfada, one quarter; Plaister, one quarter; and five-sixteenth parts of the quarter of Roughan next Monegragan quarter; in all 1,000 acres, with free fishing in Lough Swilly.

Grant to Cuthbert Cunningham (152). The small proportion of Coolem'Itrien, containing Ballyaskyn. Dromay, Rousky. Drornoylan. Gortrie, one quarter each; two 2/8 parts of the quarter of Tullyannon, next to Dromay; in all 1,000 acres with free fishing in Loughswilly. The premises are created the manor of Coolemitrien, with 300 acres in demesne, and a court baron. Rent 51 .6. Sd. English.

Phelim O'Neill of Antrim. To combat this a deputation was sent to the two Stewart brothers (Scottish undertakers of the Plantation and ancestors of Lord Londonderry) of Manorcunningham, Sir William and Sir Robert Stewart (veteran of the Thirty Years War on the continent) were requested:

King James and his forces marched through the Laggan on his way to Derry, which was held by the Protestant supporters of William of Orange.

7 In order to get to Derry it was necessary for troops, coming even from the direction of Coleraine or Limavady to march up the Eastern bank of the Foyle 'til they reached a place where the river could be forded. The place where the greater part of the besieging forces crossed was at Clady, about sixteen miles above Derry, and from thence they reached their destination, either by Raphoe or through Ballindrait and over the Long Causeway, a pass between the parishes of Clonleigh and Taughboyne, which was then the only place at which an extensive morass—now a fertile plain—that reached from the Foyle to near Raphoe, could be crossed. Both of these routes passed through the Laggan almost from the one end of it to the other, and Mackenzie tells us that when the Derry men knew that the Irish army was on the march against them, they burned all the oats and forage in the district to keep it from falling into the hands of the enemy....

Mongavlin Castle

"but after the garrison in Derry refused to surrender....he would seem to have removed to St. Johnston in order to be nearer the seat of operations, and taken up his abode with Mr. Cowan....No doubt, this honour would be one that Mr. Cowan would feel rather embarrassing, seeing that Mr. John Cowan, who was, in all probability, his son, was in Derry, at this time, and no doubt doing his best to frustrate the King's earnest desire. It is certain that King James had his quarters at St. Johnston for a letter that was conveyed to Derry by the Rev. Mr. Whitloe, an Episcopal minister at Raphoe, in which the King offered a safe pass to such persons as the garrison Derry might send to treat with him regarding the surrender of the city was subscribed as follows:— "Given at our quarters at St. Johnston 17th day of April, 1689. at four o'clock in the afternoon in the fifth year of our reign. By our Majesty's Command.''

King James's defeat and the reign of King William of Orange had far-reaching results on the history and life of the people of this area. When Queen Anne came to the .throne in 1702 the Penal Laws were enforced against Roman Catholics. There is a Mass-rock at Rateen possibly on or near the site of the old monastery which was once there, which would indicate that for a time there was some persecution.

Everyone had to pay tithes to the Established Church, and anyone who held any kind of public appointment had to take Communion in it. Even Presbyterians who held such offices were dismissed, among them Mr. John Cowan of St. Johnston (of Siege of Derry fame). John Cowan's sister married Mr. Alexander Stewart of Castlereach, Ballylawn, and was mother to the first Earl of Londonderry. Up 'til recently there were descendants of these Cowans still living in St. Johnston, Jane and her brother Robert. They both died in the 1930s.

The Laggan now settled down to a period of comparative peace, but it wasn't a fair society. The only people who had any security of either income or possessions were the landlords, such as the Abercorns, who handled the affairs of their estate through an agent.

The published letters between the Abercorns and their agents illustrate very vividly the social history and indeed some of the political history of this district.

CHAPTER THREE

Events in British history affected the Laggan, and Bonny Prince .Charlie's Landing in Scotland had brought about a drop in the demand for purchasing properties.

to all kind of trade. We are daily hearing different reports of the rebels in Scotland without any certainty, however, the country is greatly alarmed.

At this time there was a check on available firearms in the district in case of invasion, and the agent reported again.

Fire-arms in Lismachorry in manor of Magavelin. 60 in order, 35 in bad order. Markets are quite down here, none to offer one penny for cloth, yarn or cowes. The Deputy Governors of the Co. of Donegal! have by order of the Govt. wrote to several captains of the militia to array, and as your Lordship is so good as to propose to appear at the head of your tenants, I am persuaded they won't incline to be enrolled or listed with any till your Lordship comes to the country.

Fears about a rising in sympathy with the Jacobites were unfounded. The agent writes here in reassuring terms of the loyalty of the tenants, which were mainly Protestant. Thirty years after it was a different story.

1778. The agent reported:

The country is really wild, caused much I think, by the account from America. I was never more apprehensive of a rising.

His apprehension was probably increased by the fact that there had been 4000 militia sent to the American War of Independence, leaving behind a very small force, and there was no police force. For their own protection the people formed The Volunteers (a voluntary police cum army force) in Belfast in 1778.

The Volunteer business still goes on, and some thousands are to be reviewed in Derry by My Lord Charlemont.

On my last visit to Ireland I thought the people feverish, but now I think they are nearly frantic. Nothing hardly is spoken of but the Volunteers.

Volunteers put an end very much to house-breaking and robbery. There is less quarrelling at fairs. And

The petition from the Cloughfm tenants is, I believe, mostly true. The gauger, the officer that commanded the party and the soldiers all behaved very outrageously; the officer was a Mr. St. Laurans, son to Lord Howth, who is far from well behaved. In consequence of this Mr. John Carey, a Volunteer Officer with a good many other Volunteers came to this town (St. Johnston) in order to apprehend St. Laurans.

The Volunteer movement had a short life and was disbanded in 1783. Its members drifted into many secret societies, the most powerful being the United Irishmen which was formed in Belfast in October, 1791 by Wolfe Tone, a Protestant barrister from Dublin. The scene was now set for the tragic rising of 1798.

all contributing to widespread evictions, it isn't difficult to understand why this new revolutionary society got much support.

We turned out a great number this fortnight past....they had no possibility of clearing their arrears. The most of the farms will be taken by their neighbours.

James Hamilton Jun., recorded:

I am just alight from having accompanied the sheriff in the execution of 2 ejectments that had been served: one was settled very advantageously, but the other gave violent opposition having barricaded the house, himself, with two more armed with muskets and swords, denied admittance to sheriff or any other person.

Apparently the neighbours weren't always willing to have anything to do with these evicted farms, for it is written:

Apart from fearing physical retribution from the evicted, it was also believed that they might put a curse or "evil eye" on any new tenant. In 1797 things reached a head, and the agent wrote:

The entire of your Lordship's estates as well Tyrone as Donegal has been in so disturbed and rebellious a state that I have been obliged in many instances to enforce the rent by means of parties of the military....The ruffians style themselves United Irishmen and proclaim for their object, a reform in Parliament. They are composed of all religions.

This mistaken reassurance was probably deliberate for later Matthew Hood was

suspected of having sympathy with the United Irishmen and dismissed by his

employer. He disclosed by his reference to his home in Newtowncunningham that

he was a son of John Hood inventor and brother to Henry the Abercorn surveyor.

S It was in Newtowncunningham that a corp of 150 United Irishmen was formed by one Samuel Alexander. Born around 1760, into a Protestant farming family he became sheriffs deputy in Newtowncunningham. He was recorded in family papers as having the "pluck of a game-cock'' and never went out on duty without a "brace of pistols and a sword."

On one occasion he rode after robbers as far as Ballindrait (near Lifford) and exchanging fire with them, recovered the valuables and managed to capture one of them and bring him back for trial. This swashbuckling upholder of the law, however, sympathised with the ideals of the 1798 uprising and he joined the United Irishmen and "used to drill in the Laird's Lea" (field at the Castle farm in Newtowncunningham) "with a body of 150 men to the pike, sword etc. but they

to Philadelphia, "riding to Derry in daytime at a moderate pace on his own beast— not at night as was the custom of the suspects." Eighteen months after his arrival he died of yellow fever. His wife lived on in Newtowncunningham near the Castle, then the residence of Lady Hamilton, widow of Sir Henry Hamilton.

So ended the Laggan Rising of 1798 that never was. Elsewhere it was soon put down with much bloodshed, and Wolfe Tone was executed.

CHAPTER FOUR

Following the defeat of the United Irishmen came the dissolution of the Irish Parliament (there were two members returned from St. Johnston) and union with England in 1800, the country became fairly quiet though there was friction between Catholics and Protestants recorded:

I have been able to do little else than listen to quarrels and threatenings between Papishes and Orangemen. The disbanded soldiers who are Catholics are chiefly to blame. If the Orange faction got much encouragement, and no military in the country (which is now the case) there would soon be a shocking scene of confusion. Yesterday a society of them with lillys in their hats made a few poor Catholics eat them. The Orangemen of this country are for the most part the most dissolute idle fellows and who in general were active United Irishmen. The other party are of the most drunken and bigoted of the lower class of Catholics.

The Orange Order had strong support in this district as it has to this day, and there are several Orange Halls in the Laggan.